In the course of the propagation of deepwaterwaves to the shoal water zone, the distribution of the surface elevation and the wave spectrum will be changed due to shoaling effect.
深水海浪向近岸传播过程中,由于变浅作用,其波面高度分布,波谱都发生了变化。
2
Internal waves happen because the ocean is layered. Deepwater is cold, dense, and salty, while shallower water is warmer, lighter, and fresher.
出现内波是因为海洋是分层的,深层水更凉,密度高而且含盐量高,浅层水更暖和,密度小而且更淡。
3
Tsunamis travel as fast as jet aircraft in deepwater, where they are spread over a far deeper water column and make for smaller and very gradual waves at the surface.