Correction coefficient for the wave meter and expressions for wave height calculation are inferred and three methods for observation and calculation of wave height are addressed.
推导了测波仪波高订正系数表达式及波高计算公式。阐述了三种波高的观测计算方法。
2
Based on this model, we analyze the effects of the change ofwaveheight, wave's incident Angle, bottom friction coefficient and topography on rip current, and some useful conclusions are reached.