Next we motored 12km south past tranquil rice paddies and simple stilt houses to Banteay Torp, a temple built to honour Jayavarman VII's troops for their defeat of the Cham.

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"He travelled on the ferry boat from the mainland over to that little inland island posing as a police officer, saying he was there to do research in connection with the bomb blasts, " NRK journalist Ole Torp told the BBC.

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