On a more theatrical note at the Sofitel New York in the Theater district Chef Sylvain Harribey serves Hudson Valley foie gras "Au Torchon", its secret is it is scented with cognac, fig puree and black sea salt and served with a toasted home-made brioche.

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Aside from being seasonally apt, the dish perfectly articulated Benu's point of view: With the torchon, he was referencing his past at the French Laundry (there's a signature foie gras au torchon on that institution's menu), and with the Japanese ankimo and cherry blossom, he was mining the legacy of the city's substantial East and Southeast Asian populations.

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