So, instead of spending three hours in a single restaurant, I continue to roam, nibbling at glimpses of the moon between the pachinko parlours, the click-clack of high-heels down an alleyway towards Kiyamachi, the way the couples still sit at decorous intervals along the riverbank, formal as courtiers, even if talking of that wild night in Waikiki.

BBC: The walk that made me love Japan