Those watching their waistline can register for the five or 10km Rump Roast Run to burn off some calories in the morning, though it might be a wash as the winners each receive a raw 20lb rump roast.

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It morphs into an Italian-inspired cafe by night, serving crowd-pleasing plates of spaghetti alla vongole (with clams), pints of prawns and heartier dishes like roast rump of lamb.

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Head chef Stuart Tattersall, formerly of Hix in London, cooks in the dining room at a large open fire on a steel shelf (an idea Braka poached from a restaurant in Paris), where cast-iron pans roast potatoes and specialties of the house a rib of beef for two, a rump steak.

WSJ: The Perfect English Country Inn