" Longtime resident Bill Buford, author of the celebrated "Heat, " says of Beaujolais: "It's tart and bright and acidic, and perfect with birds and boudin noir and kidneys and ris de veau, and all the rich, piggy, fatty, creamy, gamey food that has made the Lyonnais so weirdly robust and happy.

WSJ: Jay McInerney on Cru Beaujolais | On Wine