When two waves of opposite direction but similar frequency collide, they create a special kind of pressure wave that carries energy to the ocean bottom.
当两方向相反但频率相似的波浪相撞时,会产生一种特殊类型的压力波,而这种压力波会把能量输送到海底。
3
A numerical model for wave shoaling computation over a gently sloping bottom is presented.