It’s crudités a different way. A dish of shrimp and sea urchin powder, meanwhile, is arranged as a beachscape with scattered stones and tufts of grass.

Fossils of sea creatures peel out of the stone, and in a slick of mud we find a rusty horseshoe-a relic from an animal that worked down here more than a century ago, hauling stones.

Back then they were made of naturally occurring objects - coconuts, sea shells, hollow stones or similar objects filled with moss or a similar material that was soaked with animal fat and ignited.