Clive Stretton, from the National Trust, which owns and cares for the mountain, says rangering teams and volunteers with the Fix The Fells scheme periodically go up and clear litter.

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For my last zapovednik evening, another ranger, Kolya Solovev, invited our half-a-dozen-strong geyser valley community to his cabin to dine on smoked salmon and watch a slideshow of polar bear and musk oxen, whose company Solovev enjoyed the year before when rangering at the Arctic zapovednik that protects all of Wrangel Island.

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