The price of petit sale (a kind of New England boiled dinner), one pear, and a half bottle of Bordeaux is seven hundred francs.

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Hearty yet humble, it awakens the appetite but does not ask too much of the cook. (Who wants theatrics before coffee?) Traditionally assembled from the leftovers of that iconic New England meat-and-potatoes-feast known as "boiled dinner, " it is utilitarian and forgiving.

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