Your feet are taking part in a micro version of a grand coastal process known as longshoretransport.
你的脚正经历着一次宏伟的海运过程——沿岸运输，不过是微型版的。
2
Using which of the deep water characteristics to compute the breaking wave characteristics and then the longshoretransport rate is a problem yet not being clarified.
用什么特征波要素来推求破波要素以计算出沿岸输沙率，尚有一些问题业未澄清。
3
Recently, the research on the instability of longshore currents becomes the hotspot. The study on this problem has great effects on the sediment and contamination transport and coastal defences.