The man overseeing this sea change is Michel Bonnefous, a school chum of Bertarelli's who still climbs mountains with the billionaire and skims across Lake Geneva on his powerful 12-meter catamaran ("It's a mountain of sail, " he says, with a touch of awe).

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One quarter of the Hotel des Bergues' rooms are suites, with spacious sitting rooms and windows that look out onto Lake Geneva and the landmark Jet D'Eau, a 140-meter-high geyser of water that is reputed to be Europe's tallest fountain.

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