We stopped at a pub and savored smoked Connemara salmon, brown bread, and fish chowder.

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Blocking the wind with his torso, Henry strikes the third match and leans forward over the bowl of a hollow pine stump, half hugging the crude hearth in which he intends to boil their string of fish into a chowder.

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Wood-aged stout goes nicely with the fish and chips, corned beef and cabbage, crab chowder and other bites served here.

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