When most people think about Australian national identity, the images they remember are overwhelmingly blokey - drovers, surfies, lifesavers, Anzac soldiers.
They were wearing clothes: things like short kilts, baggy trousers, long shirt-like affairs that hung down past the waist, even things that looked like the baggy shorts surfies favour.
Surfers became surfies in the popular media, and gradually transcended from bronzed gods to teenage threats.
He's from Richmond, Texas, but as a young teenager and high school dropout he hitch-hiked to California to become a surfie, and there he met a man who changed his life.
Moored just offshore from the poor are million-dollar yachts from the Sumatran city of Padang, used to host well-heeled surfies on junkets.