The menu enfolds Kashmir classics such as dhaniwal murg, Rajasthani dishes such as ghatte ka saag, Avadhi delights such as kakori kebab and Punjabi khana such as rara ghosht.
Punjabi's, where you'd get hearty khana at rock-bottom prices, was run by bewhiskered Sharma who had a limp and a military air.
In her introduction, she describes how it was the experience of setting up home in England that sparked her quest for real Indian khana that did not take hours to prepare.